Green Lake-Journey to the unknown

Finally!!! we started our journey for Green Lake... We-- Chandana Di and myself. All were filled with excitement and great enthusiasm. After receiving warm wishes from all the well wishers, we boarded the train that would take us closer to our destination, our final destination. Final destination... yes, we were supposed to cross Zemu Gap, but I am intentionally restricting myself only to the account of my experience till Green Lake... We can talk about the other part of this fabulous exploration on some other day.

Agomoni Di was eagerly waiting at New Jalpaiguri Station to receive us along with all our luggage. We headed to Asit Da's den, where we completed the final packing for the long journey ahead. Our jeep started, fully loaded with all the equipment and the necessities, for taking us from Siliguri to Gangtok. Now we are five in number, Asit Da has joined us from Siliguri along with two Sherpas, Pemba and Pasang.

We were supposed to get the Permit for Zemu Gap and Unknown Peak from Home Department, Sikkim Government on our arrival at Gangtok. However, we stumbled across the first hurdle on our way to the land of beauty. It became absolutely uncertain whether we would be able to proceed further as the Home Department clearly denied to permit us to rendezvous in the unknown terrain of Zemu Gap, as they were very busy to shrug off their responsibility in case of any casualty, that could happen high  up there. This denial was the resultant of the recent accident, which had taken life at Mt. Tinchenkhang. The next five days were spent in pursuing the Army people and Home Department and in convincing them to give us the required Permit. At the very first step, we were contemplating, "Shall we make it? Or we will have to return empty handed?"

First hurdle crossed finally... we were given permission... but only up to Green Lake.

Our Liaison Officer also joined us from Gangtok for the journey onward. From Gangtok we reached Lachen (2728 Mt), where we arranged for porters, who would be carrying all the essentials to Green Lake. 

DAY-1 of Trek

Zema-- The Starting Point

We started our trek from Zema (2713 Mt), and headed towards Talem (3237 Mt). The distance was not much, but we decided not to exhaust ourselves on the very first day.

Trek Started from Zema

Zemu Chu

Stone Paved Trail towards Talem

Talem

Talem, a small abode en-route Green Lake, was our first halt during the trek. 

Mt. Sniliolchu from Talem

We got the first glimpse of Mt. Siniolchu from Talem. The beauty of this peak filled my heart with joy, and I craved for more and more beauty in the coming days.

Day-2 of Trek

En-route to Yagthang

Way to go

It took us about 3 and a half hours to reach Yagthang (3429 Mt) from Talem. On our way, we crossed Lhonak Chu, and continued through the stone paved trail along the banks of Zemu Chu. The landscape was drawn in red and brown, barren trees, and burnt grasses. However, the shining blue sky accompanied us throughout the journey. 

Yagthang

On reaching Yagthang, we pitched our tents, while our porters took shelter in the withered trekkers' hut there. And we called it a day.

Day-3 of Trek

Me Crossing Thomphyak Chu

Team members taking rest

Looking forward

Next halt-- Yabuk (3976 Mt)... It took  us about 5 hours to reach there from Yagthang. On way, we crossed Thomphyak Chu and gained about 500 Mt height. The landscape did not change much on this day... the same barren trees and burnt grass... the same rusty color surrounding us... 

Three of us in front of the Trekkers Hut at Yabuk

Yabuk Trekkers Hut

At Yabuk, we stayed at the Trekkers' Hut. Though the terminal moraine of Zemu Glacier was nearby, the hut was surrounded by greenery. 

Day-4 of Trek

A long day ahead... Now we were moving towards the reign of bush, grass and mosses, above treeline. We started at around 9 AM in the morning from Yabuk. Our destination-- the Rest Camp at 4570 Mt. 

Journey started for rest Camp

On way to Moraine Zone

Approaching Moraine Zone

We could see the moraine zone in distance waiting for us. Gradually we entered the strainous moraine zone of Zemu Glacier. We had to cross a stream on our way through moraine zone. 

Walking through Moraine Zone

The Stream we had to Cross

Gradually the view also opened up as we advanced towards the snout of Zemu Glacier... High snow-capped peaks started to surround us. And we continued our journey along through the left lateral moraine of the largest glacier in Eastern Himalayas.

The Snout of Zemu Glacier

View from Snout

Again a Stream!

Yes, we got company of some Bhoral also... We reached Marco Polo Camp and halted there to take rest. From there we could see a white field ahead. 

Marco Polo Camp

Walking through Snow Field? No, it's White Stone Field

Stream Meandering through stones

No, it was not snow, but white stones, which covered the entire area, and made it look like a snow field. And there was stream, which drew crisscross pattern in the field. We crossed the stream many times while walking, and after about 1 and a half hours journey, we reached the Rest Camp. It showed in my watch-- 3 PM. 

Looking back

On looking back, the white field between the high mountains presented a picturesque canvas. 

Our Tent at Rest Camp

Mt. Siniolchu and Our Tent

Our tents were pitched, and rest announced. Mt. Siniolchu was at the closest I have ever seen till day, it was one of the best views I have ever captured in my camera.

Mt. Siniolchu

Day-5 of Trek

Twins Peak from Rest Camp

Mt. Siniolchu in the Morning

On way to Green Lake, with Mt. Sugarloaf in the Backdrop

The day started with a shining sky. But as we advanced towards the Green Lake, Base Camp at 4934 Mt, the cloud veiled the entire region. The weather became windy and cold. We continued our journey and after about 6 hours' walking through the moraine zone, we finally reached Green Lake, Base Camp, which is also the base camp for climbing Mt. Kangchenjunga (8585 Mt) from India. Though we did not gain much height that day, it was the most strainous day of the entire trek. It started drizzling just as we entered our camp site. 

Green Lake

Green Lake... "Lake", which is still in the name of the place, has disappeared long ago, and now what remains is a low land. And in front of us stood the massive Mt. Kangchenjunga, with all her beauty and mysteries. 

Green Lake

Tent at Green Lake

Mt. Kangchenjunga and Our Tent

On reaching Green Lake, we came to know that only 3 litres of Kerosin had reached there, while we started our journey with 30 litres of fuel. The porters, who were carrying the fuel, were asked about the mischief, as it was a serious point of concern for us... it was not possible to complete the mission without fuel. After receiving a verbal dose, the porters produced more 3 litres of fuel the next day. As a result we had resort to Butane cylinders in the coming days.

We spent 6 days at Green Lake. We explored the nearby region for the next visit. We still hope that one day we will get the permit for Zemu Gap and revisit Green Lake.

Zemu Glacier with Crevasses

Mt. Kangchenjunga from Green Lake

Mt. Sugarloaf and Mt. Kangchenjunga by Zemu Glacier

Mt. Kangchenjunga

Mt. Sugarloaf

Zemu Glacier

Zemu Peak

The vastness of Mt. Kangchenjunga

On the first day, the weather became clear, and I captured the surrounding beauty as much as I could. During our stay there, we also experienced Mother Nature's wrath. It started storming and it continued for two days, making us captive in our tents. It was just next to impossible to carry out the daily core outside the tent. One day morning, we found our tents covered with snow. 

After Snowfall

Sunset

Sunset

Beautiful Sky

Fire in the Sky

Cloud and Mountain

Colourful Sky

But, whenever, the weather cleared a bit, the view that was presented before us, was simply awesome and breathtaking.The beauty of the first ray of sun on Mt. Kangchenjunga made me spellbound. And the days passed in a wink.

Sunrise on Kangchenjunga

Return to the Plain Land

Then started our journey downwards. Porters had arrived one day in advance to our journey. It took us 2 days to move downhill before we reached Gangtok. Back to the state capital of Sikkim, back to civilization... it was a relief, as we could barely see any village in the entire route from Zema to Green Lake. 

Getting Ready

Moving Downhill

Coming Back

Leaving the Mountains behind

Again the Valley of White Stones

Rocky High

Down... Down... Down

Stone Paved Trail

Teesta River and Zemu Chu Confluence

On the first day, we reached Yagthang from Green Lake. It was very strainous as we had to cover three days' distance in one day. It was already night in the mountains, when we reached Yagthang. At the end of the tedious day, we were all exhausted, and had mouth watering pork preparation made by the porters... It seemed ages that I had not tasted meat... It was an awesome experience. Next day, we reached Zema and from there hired a jeep to reach Lachen. In Lachen, we collected left luggage, made payment to the porters and left for Gangtok the same day. It was 10 at night when we reached Gangtok.

The next day, we were at Siliguri, and ready to head towards home... Kolkata.