Altitude: Changabang - Shining Mountain

It has been years since I heard the story of the magnificent climb of Mt. Changabang. It was a dream since then to see this rarely known mountain. In 1976, Peter Broadman and Joe Tasker reached the summit through west wall using the big wall climbing technique which was revolutionary in itself.

I was planning this trek to Changabang Base Camp for a long time but never had the chance to accomplish it. Finally the opportunity came in 2011 when my friend finally planned this trek in Garhwal Himalayas. The team consisted of six members-- me and five of my friends-- Tista Halder, Sambaran Banerjee, Samrat Basu Roy, Sourav Biswas and Kin Bhattacharjya. I was a bit worried, as Samrat and Sourav had very little exposure to mountains, while Kin was going to Himalayas for the first time. Was I taking a huge risk and enormous responsibility as a team leader? The route was going to be daunting, and definitely not meant for novices.

It was 13th May when five of us boarded Doon Express-- destination Haridwar. On 15th we reached Haridwar where Kin joined us. From there we hired a jeep straight to Joshimath. It was one of the most tiresome journey I have ever had in the mountains. I have never encountered such a hot and humid weather in high mountains. When we reached Joshimath, we were completely exhausted. We found shelter at Birla Guest House.

In the evening our guide Lakpat Singh Bisth arrived at the Guest House along with Jaybeer and Govind to check the luggage, ration, utensils and preparation. He was pleased with our preparation and Jaybeer, who was a porter cum cook, suggested some last minute change in our food list. We had already fixed the rates of porter and guide over phone and Lakpat Ji confirmed it once again. We invited them to have dinner with us at a nearby hotel. When Lakpat Ji came for dinner he was totally drunk and he refused to go at the rate fixed by himself only. We tried to reason out with them but in vain. We had a small fight but later had to give in to their demand as we had no other option.

We were supposed to leave for trek the next morning and it was impossible for us to arrange a new guide in such a short time. With bitterness of our first interaction, we went back to the Guest House. We were really shocked and felt really horrible at his attitude. The next shock came to us the next day when he demanded for another porter. As previously agreed by himself only, he denied to carry even the half load and demanded for a porter. We had no option but to oblige with his demands, as our first priority was the trek, for which all of us had come so far.

DAY 1. 16 May

It was quite late when we finally got hold of our permission for the trek from DFO's office and the jeep also came late. It was around 2.30 PM when we finally started for Jumma, the starting point of our trek. We enjoyed the beautiful meandering roads through mountains and vales. Though we had to face few initial hurdles, my heart was filled with joy and hope that the rest of the journey will go smoothly as planned. We were very eager to start the first day of our trek. But our joy was short-lived as there was a puncture and we lost some vital time. It was really late at around 5.15 PM, when we reached Jumma.

The starting point of Trek-- The hanging bridge

Our car dropped us 1 km ahead of Jumma from where we were to start walking after crossing a hanging bridge. The distance to be covered was only 4 Km and it was 7 PM when we reached Ruing village (7500 Ft). We camped at the trekkers hut in the village.

DAY 2. 17 May

Today's destination was be Dunagiri (11580 Ft) a small mountain village. It's one of the toughest trail as we will be gaining more than 4000 Ft in a very short time and that too on the very first day. Yes... I did not consider the previous day's trek as a proper one. There were lot of concerns going in my mind, and being the leader, I was quite worried. Half of my team was inexperienced, I didn't know whether they would be able to walk in this harsh terrain and this steep gradient. There is always the acclimatization factor which could happen to any of us. We were still short of one porter and what Lakpat Ji will be demanding next is another concern. Any way, the remaining one porter arrived and at 9 AM after having our breakfast we started our journey.

On way to Dunagiri

Capturing moments

Through the vale

The trail

Catching Breath

Meandering Trail

The trail took us through green forest and meadows, the high mountains and the meandering river followed us...

Waterfall

We could see some breathtaking waterfalls. It was a journey worth taking.

Before entering the landslide zone

With rest at regular interval and chatting in between our walks, we were all lost in this beautiful and calm place and enjoying the prize of our sweat thoroughly.

Half way through the trek the tree-line gradually vanished and a vast rock fall zone opened in front of our eyes. I didn't have a single idea about this vast rock fall region and in what way it can pose trouble to us. We must cross the region to reach Dunagiri...

Danger Zone

Crossing

Walking through boulders and loose rocks

Almost there

And we finally crossed it... though with utmost caution. We took a long break before we crossed the region. My plan was to regain as much energy as we can and then cross the entire region without taking any rest. For the first time we could see Dunagiri village, it seemed so close yet so far away.

There lies Dunagiri

The Last Mile

Push Push...

Having a continuous watch for the falling rocks above our heads, we finally and safely made it through the zone. At this time the rain came, and we were very lucky to cross the area before that.

Dugairi Village

Walking towards Camp Site

Our Camp

At 3 PM we finally reached our camp site which was made near a broken school building. Dunagiri village consisted of a number of stone walled houses, designed along the mountain slope...

Dunagiri Village

Potato Cultivation

Though the population was much less at that point of time, we still could find some people, who carried on potato cultivation there at that high altitude.

Looking towards route ahead from the high point

Camp site from high up

Though it rained at regular interval we went to higher grounds for acclimatization as some of us were having headache for this abrupt height gain.

My concerns and worries!!! Most of them were gone. The headache was gone and every one seemed to be fit. Kin amazed me with his walking capability the very first time in Himalayas. Sourav and Samrat was really very good. Lakpat Ji guided us very well through the trek. Lights off for a good night sleep.

Day 3. 18 May

Destination was Lower Bagini Glacier, but we were really uncertain about our move. It was raining heavily since 3 AM last night. All of us were down as it seemed impossible to move any further. In midst of this the only good thing was the delicious alu paratha which Jaybeer suggested to make for breakfast. Finally, the rain stopped at 10 AM and after half an hour we started our trek.

Trek to Lower Bagini Glacier started

On way

Dunagiri Village in clear weather

Structure

Way through village

Until now we were walking on the left bank of Bagini Nala (river), but today we crossed it over to the right bank and it will follow us till Bagini Glacier. The weather was clear by now.

View from the trail

Trail

Rest at Bagini Kharak

We reached Langatuli (13200 Ft) at about 1.30 PM. Lakpat Singh suggested that we set our camp here. Though reluctant at first, I finally decided to camp at Langatuli, as the weather condition was deteriorating again. It later turned out to be a very good decision.

Bagini Nala in front of Langatuli

Camp at Langatuli

Langatuli Camp

Langatuli is one of the best places I had ever camped. It's a small meadow by the Bagini river with Mt Hati and Mt Ghori behind us, Mt Dunagiri on the right side and Mt Rishi and Mt Hardeol in front of us.

Range with Mt. Hati and Mt. Ghori

Mt. Hati and Mt. Ghori

Mt. Rishi

Mt. Dunagiri

View of Bagini Glacier from Langatuli

We could also see the terminal moraine of Bagini Glacier from here. The rest of day we mostly spent sitting on the big bolder at our camp site enjoying the spellbound view and chatting among us. I was really happy seeing the excitement and enthusiasm among my team members.

Day 4. 19 May

Our goal was to reach Upper Bagini Glacier (15000 Ft) which would be our final camp. Unlike yesterday, the sky was all clear and we started at 9 AM.

Good Morning with a clear view

Before starting for Upper Bagini Glacier

Trek started

Approaching Moraine Zone

Rest (Mt. Saaf Minal and Mt. Rishi in view)

After walking through the river bank for an hour we reached the right lateral moraine of Bagini Glacier.

Terrain

Walking through narrow trail

Balancing

We entered the moraine zone, and would continue the rest of our journey through this terrain only, dodging boulders, alert at every step.

Rocky region

Dodging Boulders

As we advanced, the trail became more difficult, now we had to negotiate steep slope and boulder region.

Resting on a boulder

Moraine Zone

A long way to go

Have to reach there

There was no proper trail and chances of getting lost were very high. The only option was to follow the cairns (pile of stones to mark the proper route), which were there throughout the trail at regular interval.

Mt. Rishi and Mt. Saf Milan--(L-R)

Though Lakpat Singh was there, but by now our team had been divided into three. He was leading the first team, Tista and Sourav. Kin was little unwell and I had to be on his side helping him negotiate the tough terrain. Sambaran Da and Samrat was coming last, and they were taking frequent breaks for taking pictures.

Though the route was getting tougher and tougher, the spectacular view of the mountains was enough to boost our confidence and energy and push us ahead. We could now see Mt. Saaf Minal, Mt. Rishi standing with their vastness and grandeur before us.

Snow capped high point seen from the trail

Gradient

Snow and steep wall

Bagini Glacier with peaks in backdrop

When I reached Lower Bagini Glacier yesterday's decision came to my mind. It was a decision well taken otherwise we would have been in big trouble if we had covered such a long distance in a single day. At about 2 PM three of us reached Upper Bagini Glacier. We were pitching our own tents from the beginning of the trek and was little surprised to see a tent already pitched when we arrived. Tista had already reached the camp before us and had it pitched with the help of Govind, and had already started pitching the next one.

Upper Bagini Glacier Camp

I sent Lakpat Ji and a porter to locate the last team and help them. Another hour passed by and there was no sign of any of them. At this time Sambaran Da arrived and there was no sign of Samrat or the others with him. He told me he had lost his trail and went downward towards the glacier, and he didn't know any thing about the others. This news was horrifying enough for all of us. And I had to go down to find them, Sourav came with me. Another hour passed by and there was no sign of any of them.

At this point I was at my wit's end and all bad things were creeping in my mind. We were signaling by whistling continuously and at last we heard a reply coming from down the glacier. It was Lakpat Ji and he was looking for Sambaran Da. They had found Samrat and he was coming with his rescuer. It was a huge huge relief for all of us. On meeting Samrat, we came to know that he was well, even didn't lose the trail... he said he was just tired and had fallen asleep. I was awestruck and all my happiness on his arrival turned to anger. Never in my life I have heard of someone falling asleep in between a trek and that too amidst such a dangerous terrain. As usual Jaybeer cooked us a wonderful dinner. And we went to bed early filled with excitement about our venture next day. All I wished was the weather to be on our side the next morning.

Day 5. 20 May

It was the day-- my dream of seeing Changabang, The Shining Mountain will come true. Our destination Changabang Base Camp (16500 Ft).

Sunrise at Upper Bagini Glacier Camp

Beautiful view of Mountain Range at dawn

Getting Ready

Camp in Morning

Mt. Hati and Mt. Ghori in Morning light

Started for Changabang Base Camp

We started early in the morning at 7 AM, and will be back to our camp after visiting the view point. The trail is gradual no more steep slope or boulder zone to be negotiated. In about 45 minutes we reached the Base Camp, but our view point was a little ahead.

Walking towards Changabang Base Camp

On way

Changabang Base Camp

Puja at Changabang Base Camp

Lakpat Ji offered a small puja at the base camp and after taking the blessings, we moved forward. We were walking leisurely through a vast moraine zone but it was a flat one unlike the previous day's route and we were thoroughly enjoying our time. The weather was very cold.

Mt. Rishi and Mt. Saaf Minal ahead

Vastness of Mt. Saaf Minal

Way to view point

In front of Mt. Saaf Minal

Throughout the route, Mt. Saaf Minal, Mt. Rishi and Mt. Hardeol were standing in a vast wall formation in front of us. Slowly Mt. Kalanka Started to appear but there was no sign of Mt. Changabang.

Mt. Kalanka coming in view

Mt. Saaf Minal and Mt. Kalanka in backdrop with Bagini Glacier in front

The last part of our journey consisted of nearly a 1000 Ft scree zone which would take us near the view point. It was the most difficult part of the entire trek as it consisted of loose rocks and boulders. On every 3 steps we were taking forward, we were coming down at least one step-- and the gradient of the wall was also not to our liking. Finally, Mt. Changabang started to become visible and we were so excited, that we forgot the difficulty of the road ahead. At around 9 AM we finally reached the view point. My long nurtured dream, all the hardship faced in this trek, all the hurdles crossed-- it finally payed. The view was out of this world.

Approaching View Point

Negotiating Scree Zone

Climbing up

First glimpse of Mt. Changabang

Glacial Lake in Bagini Glacier

Mt. Kalanka & Mt. Changabang

The Shining Mountain

Mt.Rishi Mt. Kalanka & Mt. Changabang (L-R)

Mt. Purbi Dunagiri

Mt. Changabang was standing right in front of us-- the massive rocky face and steep gradient, which have been alluring mountaineers across the world for years. The peaks around were Mt. Kalanka, Mt. Saaf Minal, Mt. Rishi and Mt. Hardeol. We could also see Mt. Tirshuli West and Mt. Purbi Dunagiri from hear.

View from view point

Mt. Trishuli West

Below View Point

Mission Accomplished

After spending half an hour, we finally came down and headed towards our camp. We reached camp at 11 AM. The rest of the day was spent lazying around the camp.

Day 6. 21 May

Downward journey begins. Last night, it started frosting as the temperature dipped below zero degree. My watch read -6 degrees Celcius, and it also became windy.

Frosty Morning at Upper Bagini Glacier Camp

Today's destination was Dunagiri village. We started at 9 AM, while coming down we were really surprised to see the gradient-- and we were astonished in our achievement-- how could we scale this height!!!

Beauty at Langatuli

Colours

Rest at Langatuli

Langatuli

The wind was still blowing fast and it was really cold. Langatuli had a new look by now, the region was full of wild flowers-- it was a canvas painted with colours by artist nature. But we couldn't enjoy the view for long as the blazing wind was cutting through our bones.

Way to Dunagiri village

Never-ending trail towards Dunagiri village

Back to Dunagiri village

We continued through the trail and it was around 2 PM, when we reached Dunagiri.

Day 7. 22 May

It rained throughout the night again, and was still raining in the morning. But we had to reach Jumma by 2 PM as our Jeep would be waiting for us near the bridge to take us back to Joshimath. So we had to start walking on our final day in the rain.

Sunset at Dunagiri Village

Camp

Crossing the landslide zone

The main concern was to cross the boulder region in this rain, as the rain could loosen the boulders, and landslide could be triggered at any point of time. We managed to cross the area safely without much hazard.